tips for sinlge- and multi-pitch onsighting

Tips for onsighting single- and mult-pitch routes! Below are my top three tips for each!

The Delicate Sound of Thunder

5.11b/c PG13, mixed, onsight

Black Belvet canyon, Nevada

Nate Kenney photo (shot for Trango climbing)

Tip #1 – Attempt to identify rests/cruxes on the ground

Before pulling onto your route, take a look. Where does the crux appear to be located? Is there a particularly blank part of the wall? Is there a significant angle change? Is there somewhere that you may be able to get a no-hands rest or knee-bar?

You can determine a large amount of this information on the ground, and it is in your best interest to do so. Head up the route with as many clues as possible to effectively solve the puzzle on the go!

Tip #2 – Keep your heartrate as low as possible (rest longer than you think you should at stances)

This one is big. At a good rest, but you aren’t really tired? Rest anyway. At a minimum you can get your heartrate down (crucial for pump management). But you can also take a look at what is ahead, do some preliminary route reading, and slow down your thoughts.

If you do find a really good rest, I recommend spending about twice as much time here as you initially want to.

Tip #3 – Commit fully on the ground – onsight or whip!

Full commitment. No taking. You can’t hit that low-percentage move if you don’t go for it. Tell you belayer this is your plan out loud to help you stick to it! Then, let ‘er rip!

Drifting, 5.11c PG13 - onsight

Pine Creek Canyon, Nevada

…nearing the top of pitch 4!

Things take a different flavor when you attempt to onsight multi-pitch routes. You certainly cannot see the cruxes from the ground and you are looking at stacking multiple onsights. Below are some of my top tips for onsighting multi-pitch routes!

Tip #1 – If you are in a new zone, start with some routes that are a lower in grade than your single-pitch onsight level

Lowering this grade range for a few routes will allow you to get a feel for the rock in a new area, your ability to read it, and your confidence (or lack of confidence) in what the guide book / online descriptions say.

For example, if you are consistently onsighting 5.11+ single-pitch climbs, knock it back to 5.11- for a few routes to start. Take style of climb and safety into consideration as well. Then, move up accordingly!

Tip #2 – Don’t be afraid of down climbing a bit

Multi-pitch routes wander more than single-pitch lines – that’s just the nature of 500ft+ routes. Sometimes you can’t see the next anchors. You lens needs to grow to encompass the possibility of some wandering. Sometimes, even experienced climbers get a little off route. In this case, give yourself permission to downclimb and regain an earlier stance to reassess!

Tip #3 – It ain’t over till it’s over!

Onsighted the crux pitches? Great! But you’re not there yet! The upcoming pitches may be lower in grade… but maybe they are your anti-style or difficult to read. If onsighting a multi-pitch is important for you, it is important that you don’t let your focus dip until that final anchor has your rope in it!