Training Beta Podcast, July 2024
We cover a broad range of topics all centered on the main theme of why your gym climbing doesn’t always translate to your outdoor climbing:
Bolts are further apart / bigger fall potentials
Different types of rock you’re not used to
Body positions that we don’t see much in a gym
What skills and strengths are required to climb harder grades
Karly talks about ways to manage your fears and exactly what might be holding you back in your strength repertoire to climbing harder things, such as…
Shoulder engagement
Fewer points of contact on the wall
Movement patterns on harder climbs
Ice Ice Beta Podcast, October 2023
In this episode with Patrick Cooke, we talk about progressing in ice climbing with longevity in mind, mental training, and balancing mentorship with figuring things out for yourself.
Patrick is based in the Northeast and has been climbing for nearly 20 years. During that time he has ticked hard classics all over New England, the Canadian Rockies, Québec, Scotland, and Hyalite Canyon.
Some of his proud sends include Call of the Wild at Lake Willoughby in Vermont. Omega at Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire, and he was part of the first free ascent team for The Resistance, a 5-pitch M10 on Mount Washington in New Hampshire.
Patrick is especially drawn to thin technical routes, weird mixed lines, and has begun to embrace more sport-styled mixed climbing over the past few years. In his coaching, he focuses on headgame and decision making in the mountains.
The Nugget Climbing Podcast, April 2023
In Project Direct’s second interview on The Nugget, Coach Casey Elliott joins!
Casey’s background in coaching and climbing
Mikey Schafer calls Casey out on avoiding sport climbing projects =P
What is a multivariate statistical model and how it works
What variables were used in the analysis and which mattered the most
Does height, ape index, or weight matter?
Getting creative with skill drills + on the wall training
...and so much more!
This conversation will help you get to know Casey and encourage you to take another look at balancing your training with your outdoor climbing!
The Nugget Climbing Podcast, JUne 2022
Steven and karly talk about…
Making mental training measurable
Why we don’t push the grade pyramid (and why it was dope for to work a 12a this spring)
The trenches of transition between climbing disciplines (and how you can treat skill acquisition like learning a language)
Coming back from climbing injuries
Transitioning from engineering to full-time climbing coach
The four pillars we recommend you look for when considering hiring a climbing coach
...and so much more!
This conversation will challenge your ideas on climbing progression 🤯, give you new ideas on how you can progress your mental game for performance, and -- just give you a chance to know Karly (founder + head coach) more fully!
The average climber podcast, dec 2022
Lauren, Caitlin, and Karly talk about…
Making mental training measurable
Fear management and improvement
How project direct’s approach to head game is different than other books on the topic
How to take the shame out of struggling with mental abilities
Performing under pressure, redpoint jitters, and optimal performance state
How to support a partner who is struggling with fear or redpoint jitters
...and so much more!
This conversation will change your perspective about fear, stress, and climbing 🤯, give you new ideas on how you can progress your mental game for performance, and -- just give you a chance to know Karly (founder + head coach) more fully!
First Ascent Podcast, Sept 2022
With PD Coach Patrick Cooke!
“This week Jay and Lee are joined by Pat Cooke, an avid ice climber and regular at Russell Crag during the warm months.
Pat has led over 1,000 ice climbs in the last 18 years, so he has a thing or two to share about the sport, including his approach to safety and how to sustain long term enjoyment in the sport.
Plus, hear Pat’s unvarnished opinions about Jay and Lee’s work on the lines at Russell Crag!”
trenches of transition - expand by chelsea podcast
interview, June 2022
Chelsea and karly talk about…
The trenches of transition between climbing disciplines and rock types
Focus development + mental tools
The hardest thing karly has have ever climbed
Project Direct’s new coach, Casey!
Coaching for longevity in the sport
…and much more!
Bozeman Climbing Perspectives -
interview by sam rogers, march 2022
“Karly sat down to talk with me while she was going big in Vegas. we covered a lot of ground in this conversation.
Listen in to hear about the reasons for helping start the Montana Women’s Climbing Festival, Karly’s thoughts on bringing out the best from her clients, being a well-rounded climber, being inspired by peers, thoughts on inclusivity in the Bozeman climbing community and Montana’s no publishing ethic, and much more.”
Montana Mountaineering association speaker series, august 2021
Montana Mountaineering Association board member, Chad Dokken, and Karly discuss the beginnings of Project Direct, coaching philosophy, and movement through injuries for their 2021 speaker series!
Click the video to take a listen!
Expand by Chelsea (formerly lady beta) podcast, June 2021
Chelsea and karly discuss managing your mindset while injured, Karly shares her story of her tib-fib fracture in Indian Creek, projecting tactics, and why Project Direct doesn’t push the grade pyramid.