headpoint training graduate: hayley mckinney

I got the opportunity sit down with Project Direct athlete Hayley McKinney and discuss her progress and transformation over the last six months. The alacrity in which she took on each task I assigned her was key to her transformation.

I’m immensely proud of her dedication and excited to share our chat with you!

Hayley Mckinney - Headpoint Training graduate, writer, side-shave rocker

Photo by Ryman Wiemann

Let’s dive in!

Tell me a bit about your relationship with climbing before we started working together in August 2021.

I was stuck in this fear rut and I didn't have the tools myself to get out of it. I didn't know what direction to go in. What seemed to work for others wasn’t working for me.

I sustained a really traumatic ankle injury in Arapiles – ever since that, I could not lead a climb without top roping it first. My fight or flight response would be so intense that I’d have to come down.

I could redpoint a 12a, but couldn’t onsight a 10b.

I had the confidence of a gnat. People would say to me "… it doesn't really seem like you are having much fun," at the crag.

What did you do to work on your headgame before reaching out to me?

I read The Rock Warrior’s Way, attended clinics ran by professional climbers, and took all the advice I could from others who wanted to see my overcome my challenges. Nothing worked.

People would tell me that statistically and logically speaking, it was very unlikely that I would get hurt in a certain sport fall. I’m a very logical person – people even call me a robot sometimes – but that logic did not change how I felt on route.

Coach’s note: I have heard so many people with coaching and/or medical backgrounds try and use logic to help climbers overcome a fear of falling. this is indeed illogical.

why? because the physiological response going on in the body in these moments is a symptom of conditioning to a specific stimulus, not a lack of understanding of the statistical odds of sustaining an injury. This is especially true if the athlete experienced a traumatic event or past injury.

let’s dig a little deeper here. what exactly is trauma, physiologically speaking? how is that different than stress?

stress is described by the experience of your nervous system responding to stimuli that is perceived as threatening. This typically involves cortisol, adrenaline, and norepinephrine in your system. but when the threatening stimuli is removed, your nervous system returns to its previous (‘normal’) state.

trauma is really the same as stress - the difference is that when the threatening stimuli is removed, your nervous system does not return to the same ‘normal’ as before. You are left with less of an ability to process and handle that kind of stress.

If you have ever had a big climbing injury like Hayley, this should ring a bell.

Hayley Cckinney surfing some steeps!

Photo by Ryman Wiemann

Tell me a bit about your internal dialogue during this time.

I knew that taking big whips was too far out of my comfort zone. It was too traumatic. And when I got scared, I didn’t know what specific, intermediate steps to take.

Additionally, it was hard for me to discern if my efforts were helping me or not. I was just stuck.

I didn’t know how much fear was too much or not enough. I didn’t know what path to take, but I knew I wanted to overcome this. I just needed a path to follow.

What did you expect signing up for Headpoint Training, a three-month mental training program?

I didn't know what to expect! At that point, I didn’t think much more could be done, but you were referred to me from a trusted source so I just went all in and did everything you said and kept an open mind.

One thing that stuck out to me, is how completely you committed to the program. You did every task in its entirely. Athletes that do that are the ones that find the most success!

Let's talk about your time in the New River Gorge this fall, what were you most proud of?

You know, I sent some Preparation H, a super insecure 12a Preparation H and I was hitting dynos on lead.  But the sends weren’t the most exciting part.

I was the most proud of myself when I realized I was able to just walk up to an 11c and go for the onsight with 100% commitment. That was unheard of for me before Headpoint Training and that was a really, really special day.

Tell me a little bit about your relationship with climbing now.

Well, I certainly progressed past my fear of falling – taking whips on dynos was a huge stride, but I also come at the challenges in climbing with a whole new approach. My relationship with climbing is 1000x better than it used to be.

I was a slave to needing to always perform a certain level. If I had one day of less-than-optimal performance day, my internal dialogue would tell me I sucked.

Another thing that changed was that in the past I didn't feel like I was deserving of sending certain routes. Now I'm much more confident in my own abilities and potential. But I'm excited to continue to work hard to really see my full potential.

I came to you with a fear of falling, but after working together, I realized I was getting in my own way in a lot of different ways.

Now, the question is where I want to dedicate my efforts. By following the stoke, I feel like the sky is the limit!

What mental tool was the most helpful for you? What one makes the biggest difference?

My mantra. When I sport climb, I just expect to fall. It changed a few times over the course of the program but saying "plan to fall" has led me to being able to climb for the movement and not to avoid a fall.

Has anything from Headpoint Training leaked into your life outside of climbing?

It has made the logistics of my climbing life way less complicated. I used to not like to climb with strangers, or new people, or at busy crags. But now I can climb and send around whoever. The people around don't affect my performance.

Describe your climbing potential.

I feel like I have no limits on what I can do. I am excited to challenge my physical strength and skills. So, I feel like my potential is limitless if I am following my own inspiration and stoke.

I am setting some bigger goals. My potential feels unrestrained. The sky is the limit. The question isn't what is possible, the question is what I want to commit myself to and work towards.

“I am so proud of myself for standing in a place that I’ve wanted to be for so long. I didn't know it was possible to feel like this.”

I used to see women at the crag just hopping on and trying to onsight 5.12s and think "wow, that's so cool. I want to do that someday." And now I have! I do! Those are the shoes I climb in these days.

Since you graduated from Headpoint Training, we have started working on mental training for performance in Flowpoint Training. What has that been like?

It's been so interesting. I feel like this topic is so neglected (in every sport I have ever been a part of). But no one really talks about how to get better at performing under pressure. I can’t wait to implement what we have been discussing.

Thank you so much for chatting with me Hayley! I am honored to be your coach!

You can follow hayley’s progress at her blog: 512 and Beyond

If you are interested in learning more about the mental training I do with climbers, please reach out to me at karly@projectdirectcoaching.com.

Sending love and stoke,
Karly